Incidentally, I had really good service tonight at Kebab Husidh, which also was the first satisfying dinner I've had yet here. Great fish and chips, and incredibly helpful counterperson.
Also, I've had some light shed on the mystery of plucking condiments off tables. Apparently that's normal. The fishwife (I just love that word) at Kebab Husidh plucked the vinegar off another couple's table so that I might ensour (I just made that word up!) my fish and chips so that they were even more delicious. Afterwords, I plunked it back on their table, just because I think I might personally be able to teach Icelanders some courtesy, being from the South, and they seemed quite pleased or at least entertained.
Additionally, I have a lopapeysa now, and I finally feel like I fit in. People look at me differently...or rather, they ignore me differently now that I have the national hipster costume.
I've also started apologizing for not being able to speak Icelandic and that really seems to make the locals happy or at least, less pissy. I'm fine with that. I think people should be able to speak the language of countries they visit. Although, Icelandic is fucking hard. Old Norse at least is a written language, and pretty much sticks to a few subjects...that one wasn't hard. But Modern Icelandic is a bitch in comparison. Imagine hearing the Vulgate (common Latin) out loud for the first time, when all you've studied is Ecclesiastical Latin. Yeah.
Anyway, I'm beat. And a lot less anxious than I have been. Things are looking up.
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